We had two nights spent in Cavendish at this little motel called the Boardwalk. Its name was accurate -- there was indeed a boardwalk leading from the small parking lot up to the building and its rooms.
The Boardwalk was a very basic motel -- but, for what it was, it was fine. It was, shall we say, Canadian Rustic. It had a heat pump mounted on the wall, two queen-size beds, a small cramped bathroom, a refrigerator, TV, and microwave, and that was it. Cedar paneling on all walls, wooden floors. Very basic, very rustic, nothing fancy. It resembled a furnished wood cabin.
The entire first day we were in Cavendish -- the day we went to Green Gables -- it was cold, windy, and raining like hell. It wasn't the best day for us to go to Green Gables, but time was of the essence and we only had two nights on PEI before we were closing up shop to fly back out of Halifax. While the rest of the family (read: Daisy's sister, her husband, and their five kids) were sticking around on PEI for a few more days, and we'd had a "beach day" with them after we'd gone through Green Gables, we had now separated from them for the remainder of the trip and would thus focus on Charlottetown and some food before we would have to head out the next morning.
To put this into perspective, this all took place on the day of Biden's disastrous debate with our now bullet-wounded former president, if that further sets the scene.
Let me tell you again, Charlottetown is gorgeous. It's full of shops, its downtown area is very metropolitan and big-city style -- but, like, Canadian big city style. Think of the "old market" area of your closest city. Meaning, the hipster area of town, the shops with apartments above them, laundromats and convenience stores inside the same little corner bodega, etc. It is very Bohemian and populated by what appeared to be fairly normal-looking people. The parts that weren't functioning "city" with its shops and restaurants and the like was very much either touristy areas or business/coast guard-controlled areas around the harbour. We tried to avoid those areas (we'd seen enough of them already) but there was one thing about Charlottetown -- and PEI in general, I guess -- we all universally hated.
The streets.
The road system in PEI, in general, is convoluted as hell -- lots of back roads, long winding drives going up and down hills to get you from point A to point B, drives that seemed to take three times longer getting where you were supposed to go than they should have, given the relative size of the island. There are almost no stop signs or stoplights on PEI -- everything is done via traffic circles (or, as some call them, roundabouts). Sure, the larger cities and heavily trafficked areas have stoplights and signs, but everywhere else has the roundabouts. Everywhere. Like, every few miles.
Mind you, I've seen a lot of them in Canada -- far more than here in the states -- but PEI takes the roundabout to an entirely new level.
So, once you get that part down, if you go into any of the actual cities/towns -- I'll use Charlottetown as an example because we spent a good chunk of time navigating it -- the city roads and streets are not mapped out in any logical way. In fact, they look like they were designed by drunken sailors, which...well, as we were on an island with multiple ports and harbours, that is quite possibly the case. Omaha is at least laid out in a sensible grid; you know where you're going and as long as you know direction and street names you'll get wherever you want to go just fine. Charlottetown seems built in a way that is hostile towards visitors, tourists, and people not from the area. It also turns out that the Spaceship Van we rented wasn't great for navigating such narrow streets, parallel parking, or doing much of anything but straight-line, bumpless driving. It was great when we rented it in North Carolina -- it was not the best choice for us navigating through three different provinces in Atlantic Canada.
We'd had several options for food that Daisy had looked up and wanted to try. Mama isn't a huge fan of vegan cuisine, but she's far more open to it and open to trying new things than Dad is -- so Daisy's particular brand of "food tourism" (her term, not mine) usually works pretty well for her when we're traveling together. One of the options was a fully-vegetarian Chinese place, which I was 100% down for. Another was some burger-bar like place that I didn't really get many details on and was dismissed almost as soon as it was mentioned, and a third was a European-Mediterranean-Asian-fusion place where you could get a ton of vegan things, including pizzas and sandwiches and burgers, falafels, fries, wraps, soups/ramens, etc. Because of the variety, we ended up choosing that one.
To be fair, the menu looked great -- the photos and the absolutely insane amount of variety to choose from was quite impressive. Our goal was to order dinner, a second dinner we could eat later (or for breakfast the next morning if we so chose), and some snacks. So, I ordered a full-size pizza with vegan sausage, a vegan chicken wrap, mozzarella sticks, fries, and I can't remember what else. Daisy ordered a second full-size veggie/vegan pizza, vegan poutine, and some desserts; Mama ordered a falafel wrap and possibly some other things, I really can't remember. It was...ahem...expensive.
We were not there late-late; we were there during prime-time hours and the three of us, along with one to-go order and one other sit-down customer were the only patrons in the restaurant on one of the most gorgeous days I've ever spent in Canada. That should've told us something off the bat.
To be fair, I thought it was fine -- the pizza was quite good, the mozzarella stick things were fire, and while they weren't the best fries I've ever had, the fries were good too. I saved the vegan chicken wrap for later to take back to the hotel. However, Mama and Daisy were not impressed at all and were vocal about it once we left the place. Mama said it was the worst falafel she'd ever had (which surprised me because I thought it looked good at the very least), Daisy said her poutine was lacking and that she should've just gotten the pizza and nothing else, and -- when we had them later, we realized the desserts were quite good too. My vegan chicken wrap, when I reheated it the next evening, was still actually pretty decent. But, and I had to agree with them, it was overall the worst meal we had the entire time we were in Canada. Mama went as far as to say it was one of the worst restaurant meals she'd ever had.
Can't win 'em all, I guess.
I would've been fine with the vegetarian Chinese place.
Anyway.
To save the day (and we'd found it the day before, too) we went back into the Charlottetown downtown area to find a "rolled ice cream" food truck that served -- you guessed it -- rolled ice cream. I don't really know how to describe it, but it's like thin sheets of ice cream...rolled up, like ice cream taquitos, and stuffed somewhat vertically into a small paper bowl. I don't know what advantage this gives over, say, normal ice cream by the scoop, but they had a lot of vegan options and it was phenomenal. It was also expensive.
Almost everything on PEI is expensive.
The next morning, we checked out of the rustic motel and left PEI behind -- crossed the Confederation Bridge again -- and confirmed (though Mama had told us before) that while it is free to drive onto the island, if you want to get back off it, it costs $55 per car.
Fifty-five dollars. Per car. To leave the island.
You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave...
Our plan for our last day in Canada was pretty clear -- leave PEI, make a loop back through the edge of New Brunswick, and get back into Nova Scotia. Drive to Truro (where as you may recall, we were stranded for a while on the drive up) to get fish and chips for Mama at her favorite place there she's been going to for many years, then head back down into Halifax to check into our hotel for the night, drop off the rental car, and fly out very early the next morning. This is a relatively simple plan, right?
Well...
Look. Nova Scotia is much smaller than Nebraska. I'm aware of how long it takes to get places and do things in both places, and at this juncture the only Maritime province I haven't been to is Newfoundland and Labrador (but it's on my list). But it can take a lot of time to drive around up there given the Canadian highway system. Here in the states, there's generally ten different ways to get wherever you're going. In Nova Scotia, it's the Trans-Canada highway or bust. If you go off it, your GPS may just shrug and be like "I dunno" when you ask it to re-route you, as it did the night we arrived and we had to ask directions from the guy at the gas station. So, anywhere you go will be as efficient as the Canadian healthcare system and will take just as long (that's an inside joke for anyone who has ever dealt with the Canadian healthcare system).
We arrived in Truro in the mid-afternoon hours and first stopped at the Giant Tiger (where we parked that first night when we were stuck there). This was a much nicer, more expansive Giant Tiger than some of the other stores up there I'd been in, and in the fat guy section I found rack upon rack of metal band t-shirts in 4XL. I was stunned.
First of all, do you know how hard it is to find metal band t-shirts in my size? And I mean high-quality, officially-licensed tees? It's hard. It's really hard. Yet this store had rack upon rack of them, all sorts of different designs from wild art to album covers to tour shirts.
This presented me with a dilemma -- on one side, I'd spent an ungodly amount of money in Canada already, and I did not need any of these shirts. I also had my suitcase and backpack stuffed to capacity to the point where my suitcase was 47.5 pounds (the limit for checked baggage is 50) and my backpack was already dangerously close to splitting a zipper here or there. However, to my knowledge there's no weight limit on carry-on items, which the backpack was.
We were also on a timeframe; we needed to get Mama her fish and chips and then make the rest of the drive back down to Halifax, drop off the van, check into our hotel, shower, eat, and sleep fast because that flight left very early the next morning. Daisy also wanted to stop at the local Walmart in Truro because she wanted a black Canada hoodie like I'd purchased several days before in Port Hawkesbury, and the Walmarts were the only places that carried that brand (Canadiana; it's like the Walmart store brand for Canadian clothing).
I scanned through everything quickly in Giant Tiger; I ended up getting two Metallica shirts, two Iron Maiden shirts, and a Megadeth shirt -- the latter of which I am actually wearing now as I write this. I also got two, more classy, plain solid-color V-neck shirts in blue and gold. Daisy also picked up a few items, including some socks, and I got some Canada sticker packs (after all, Canada Day was coming up at the time). It was over $100 and I had no idea where I was going to put all these things in the luggage -- Daisy and Mama were also dangerously close to having their luggage be overweight. It had also become clear by this juncture that we'd have to leave most, if not all, of the prepackaged food behind in the hotel room or in the trash, because there was just no room for it.
As we drove to get Mama her fish and chips in the downtown area after leaving Giant Tiger, I somehow, with near-scientific levels of precision, was able to fit every new item into my already stuffed backpack and still get it to zip closed. I don't know how I did it. I don't know that I could do it again today. And I did it in the uncomfortable backseat of a moving minivan as we went around hard twists and turns (for the city of Truro seems to be designed almost as drunkenly as Charlottetown is).
After Mama's lunch, we went to the Walmart, where Daisy had a great idea -- Mama didn't have a carry-on bag. She didn't need one; she checked her suitcase and walker and she had her messenger-bag-like purse for everything else as a "personal item." You're allowed one carry-on bag and one personal item per person -- I've never used the "personal item" allowance, which is generally reserved for purses or laptop cases. I've only ever flown with a laptop once and believe me when I tell you it's generally not worth the hassle. So, technically, between the three of us we had two extra items we could take on the plane without having to check -- one would've counted as my personal item and another would've been Mama's carry-on.
"What if we just...get another piece of luggage that's carry-on sized, or another backpack?" Daisy asked.
This was ingenious as it was pragmatic -- Daisy would not have the space for the hoodie she wanted, and we'd be able to take home dirty laundry and maybe some of the food items in this extra piece of luggage, whatever we got.
So, that's what we did. After debating over a couple of small hard-shell suitcases, we ended up getting a nice, sturdy backpack (with Canada on it, also made by the Canadiana people) and Daisy got her hoodie; we stuffed it with everything we could and screwed a luggage tag onto it with Mama's name (in the event we were questioned). And off to Halifax we went.
We stopped at the hotel first -- which was five or six miles from the airport -- to lug in all the luggage, check in, and clean out the van. We left Mama in the room while Daisy and I went to return the van.
Returning a rental vehicle at the Halifax airport is one of the simplest experiences I've ever seen. There are large signs that direct you right to where you need to go, you pull into a special section of the parking garage where there are legit attendants waiting for drop offs, you park, they inspect the vehicle visually (and quickly) and then they scan the code on the car and the receipt is emailed to you...and you're done. I don't know if I've ever seen anything so efficient and fast.
Remember this, it'll be important later.
The airport has a shuttle that goes between the terminal and a few hotels around the area every half hour or so. You go through the labyrinthine maze to get back outside to the pickup/drop-off area and walk all the way down to the end of it, and then the bus comes and you hop in and in ten minutes or so, you're back at your hotel. It's rather convenient.
I'm likely not describing anything that a lot of you who travel far more than I do (or have in the past) haven't done before so many times that it feels like a chore, but we did a lot of new things on this trip and the shuttle bus is one of them. When we flew through Halifax last year, we stayed inside the airport hotel -- and when I say that, I mean that the hotel is literally inside and attached to the airport. That allowed for views like this from our hotel room window:
And no, the noise is not as bad as you'd think, especially not in the overnight hours.
As that hotel is really fucking expensive we did not opt to go that route this year, though for several reasons I really wish we had.
For one, I smashed my head into the overhead rack on the shuttle bus when we were getting into it. It hurt so bad I saw spots, and while it didn't break the skin or anything, I had a headache there for a few hours and a large, sore bump under my hairline for about a week after we returned home.
For two, the hotel we stayed in -- it was a Best Western or Ramada or Holiday Inn or some shit like that, nothing fancy -- looked nice, but it wasn't the cleanest it could've been, and the staff were all foreign and hard to understand and were somewhat less than helpful. It had the look of a very well-used, heavily traveled hotel that wasn't bad, but the cracks were beginning to show in all of the wrong places, if you will.
We settled in and all of us showered -- honestly that was the highlight of it for me, as it was the best shower I'd had on the entire trip (and that counts the AirBNB we stayed in too, whose shower wasn't great), and laid down to sleep fast to get up by 3-something to get back to the airport.
And then the noise started.
It was the AC unit in the room, which was about eight feet from my head. It rattled incessantly.
Now mind you, I wasn't really bothered by it. I'm used to sleeping through most noise -- I work overnights, and Omaha is loud during the daytime hours -- but it drove Daisy nuts. I got up once and kicked the machine and it stopped, only to start again twenty minutes later. Daisy got up to kick it too, and it stopped again....before starting again a short time later.
We were, I believe, finally able to get it to stop -- and then the fridge in the room started rattling/buzzing. Daisy also addressed that, and then...the AC started again.
Cue this cycle for the entire six or so hours the three of us were desperately trying to get some sleep in that room.
I will tell you this -- I sleep pretty well and pretty easily when I'm really tired, and once I'm out, I'm out. If I can get comfortable enough to sleep, it's game over; I've slept through tornado sirens, heavy thunderstorms, firetrucks, the cats wailing downstairs, alarm clocks, music playing, the television on, etc. And I generally only sleep about a maximum of six hours at a time. Daisy is used to far more than that and I'm sure Mama is too. So, when I woke up around 3 feeling fully rested (for better or for worse), Mama and Daisy looked and felt like zombies.
From there we gathered our things and made our way to the airport via the shuttle, checking out of the room as we did so...
Me, of course, in a fresh new Iron Maiden shirt.
The flight out of Halifax went smoothly. We landed in LaGuardia and went through a simple customs process and then were back on a plane to Omaha, with a gorgeous view of the Brooklyn Bridge as we were taxiing down the runway to lift off.
The flight from NYC to Omaha is long. I don't know for sure how long, but I know we were crammed into a plane that seemed so much smaller than it actually was, and the girl in front of me -- who weighed less than my left leg -- kept trying to recline her seat directly into my knees. Every time I would see her reach for the recline button, I would stiffen my legs and knees and make them as firm as possible, as I was already squeezed into the seat barely able to fit as it was. This made my knees and joints ache for days afterwards, to the point where it was hard for me to get up and down the stairs in my house until I got used to it again.
Add to this that there were multiple very loud and annoying children on this flight -- some of them right behind us and some of them about seven or eight aisles up. And their parents weren't parenting them; they were kicking Mama's seat and screaming loudly and watching videos on their tablets without earbuds at high volumes and...this was an economy flight, there was no TV screens in the backs of the seats, no in-flight magazine for reading, nothing but the headrest of the seat in front of you to stare at and maybe, if you weren't flying through endless seas of nothing but clouds, a bit of a view every once in a while. My seat was so tight that I couldn't have gotten my cell phone out of my pocket to play a wifi-less game even if I'd wanted to. More than anything I just wanted the flight to end and to just be back on the ground in Omaha -- it was one of the most miserable experiences I've ever had on an airplane, and over the years I've flown a lot.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity (and many nicotine mints later) we were back on the ground in Omaha, picked up our luggage quickly, and Dad picked us up. It was 90 degrees outside, and when we returned to our house -- after a long more-than-two-weeks of traveling -- it was 90 degrees inside the house, because no air conditioner.
But, we'd made it home safely. We had survived. The cats were all fine (though hot) and were, eventually, happy to see us after they stopped being mad about us being gone.
And so ends the story of the trip. I made a vow with Daisy that the next time we do this, we are not doing it for this long. One full week, maybe a week and change, is more than enough before I start climbing the proverbial walls and want to be home.